Vanessa Matthews reports on Central South Cornwall's People and Places.

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Restaurant Review – The Kings Arms, Tregony

 

Nov. 11: With the kids on half term and my extended family here for a visit, the focus was on family dining for my review this month. A wander up the road to The Kings Arms in Tregony seemed like the most hassle free place to dine with a large group including six hungry kids in tow. 

 

A great venue for a cold autumn evening, this beautiful old coaching inn provides a warm and welcoming environment with rustic slate floors and a roaring fire. There are formal dining rooms as well as dining areas around the bar which offers a variety of wines, spirits, local ale and good quality bar snacks. Owners Darren and Kay Heather have thought of everything to keep families entertained, and are well stocked with toys and games which were enjoyed by the big and little kids in our group! 

 

Service was excellent from the moment we arrived, and we had no trouble finding a table big enough to seat us all. The Kings Arms serves a good range of classic pub grub as well as a selection of specials that promise something a little more creative such as lamb & mint stew or grilled rainbow trout. Produce is locally sourced where possible, good quality vegetarian dishes are available, and portions are hearty and generous.

 

We decided to skip starters in a bid to get the kids fed before they started to fuss, but we would have had plenty to choose from including some lovely local Scallops. However, we managed to sample a variety of the main courses on offer, whilst the kids devoured smaller plates including homemade Lasagne and ’real’ Chicken Nuggets which left them with food smothered smiles all over their faces.  My choice of homemade Chicken Kiev with Sundried Tomato and Buffalo Mozzarella was a house specialty and was a welcome sight when it arrived surrounded by a mountain of chunky chips and a side salad. The Kiev featured a freshly cooked chicken breast encased in a perfectly golden brown crumb, and the filling was tasty without being overpowering. The giant Bacon and Cheese Topped Beefburgers were accompanied by even more chips and went down well with the men, whose bellies were almost beaten by them…. almost! A huge Chicken Balti served with a Poppadum and Chutney was thoroughly enjoyed by another member of our group, and a traditional Scampi, Chips and Peas was also popular.

 

I was so full from my main course that I didn’t manage a desert but my sister in law enjoyed the brandy snap basket with ice cream, whilst the kids munched through plenty of chocolate fudge cake, sticky toffee pudding and a selection of Cornish ice creams between them. A quick tidy up of the toys and games, and we headed out into the cold evening happy, full and satisfied.

 

The Kings Arms in Tregony offers fantastic value for money, with kids meals for as little as £5, and adults meals from just a few pounds more. In summary, Darren and Kay offer good quality pub fayre, attentive and friendly service, and a family friendly atmosphere. Definitely worth a visit with the kids. Pop in or call to book a table on 01872 530 202.

 

Think your restaurant could rival this one? If you would like us to come and review your venue please email vanessa@roseland-online.co.ukWe are interested in reviewing everything from cafes to fine dining and beyond.

 

Restaurant Review – The Arboretum at The Cornwall, Tregorrick, St Austell

 

Oct. 11: A couple of years have passed since the launch of the much hyped woodland spa resort ‘The Cornwall’. Mouths watering, my husband and I approached the hotel’s 2 AA Rosette Arboretum restaurant with anticipation. With an interior every bit as luxurious and stunning as the 19th Century facade, we were excited to see if our dining experience would live up to our expectations. 

 

We were privileged to be amongst the first to sample the delights of the new Autumn menu created by recently appointed Head Chef Brett Camborne-Paynter. Launched on 20th September, Brett’s debut menu made good use of seasonal Cornish produce and there were some tempting hearty meat choices as well as lighter fish and vegetarian options. I’m a huge steak fan but personally I was a little disappointed to see something as basic as peppered steak and chips on the menu… even though I have no doubt it would have been beautifully done.

 

Well, that’s the criticism out of the way. As soon as our starters arrived at the table we knew we were in for a treat. I chose a tender and tasty warm duck salad with mushrooms, truffle and rocket.  The salad was crowned by a deep fried duck egg that was so perfectly cooked it looked like it had jumped straight from the pages of a cookery book, oozing with rich golden sticky yoke. My husband’s lightly smoked Carpaccio of Cornish beef with rocket, parmesan and red wine sauce had to live up to the memory of one he’d enjoyed under the Italian sunshine in Sienna a few years ago, and it did. This is no mean feat, as many other Carpaccio’s have tried and failed before!

 

The rabbit course was not available when we visited which was a shame, but my husband tucked in to his assiette of lamb (rack, rump and shoulder) with dauphinoise potatoes and a vierge sauce. Rich and tasty, each cut of lamb was perfectly cooked and served in appetising arrangement on the plate. I opted for fillets of plaice in a pepper sauce with crab crushed potatoes, in part because I thought it might expose some faults that could make this review more provocative! Alas no, it was just as delicious as my starter and I enjoyed it all the more because of how relieved I was that all of the elements came together so well. The fish was perfectly baked and the creamy sauce was a wonderful complement.

 

This brings me nicely on to desert, and where I felt the menu read most impressively on the page. I could have enjoyed any of the varied and interesting offerings but plumbed for the caramelised basil crème brulee with strawberry soup and vanilla ice cream. Again I had chosen deliberately, sure that any weakness would show in this desert. I feasted my eyes on the dish that bubbled its way to the table; waiting for the blue flames to die away before diving into what I discovered was a perfect combination of sweet and savoury, with just the right hint of basil. The brulee had a wonderful creamy texture with a crunchy top. My only regret was that I was too full to finish it. My husband enjoyed his dark chocolate fondant with tea syrup just as much, and finally our meal was complete and we were thoroughly content. The wine list, champagne and drinks menus were extensive, we chose a lovely Argentinian Malbec Roble, and the service throughout the evening was pleasantly attentive. If you haven’t yet paid a visit to this stunning four star hotel and spa, then you’ve probably missed out on arguably some of the best food in Cornwall. What can I say? We tried to find fault, but couldn’t…

 

Prices at The Arboretum start from £22.50 per person. To make a reservation Tel: 01726 874050.

 

If you would like us to come and review your venue please email vanessa@roseland-online.co.uk. We are interested in reviewing everything from cafes to fine dining and beyond.

 

Profile – Brett Camborne-Paynter

 

Brett, who lives in St Austell, brings over 15 years of experience to his new role at The Arboretum, having previously worked with Jean Christophe Novelli at the Four Seasons as well as time working at The Waldorf, The Ivy, Le Caprice and J Sheekey. Brett set up Austell’s Restaurant in 2006 which gained two AA Rosettes and a Michelin Guide listing within just 6 months of opening.

 

 

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