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Welcome to Roseland View; local reporters casting their eye over the Roseland Peninsula's hidden gems.
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This month, roving reporter, Mark David Hatwood, takes to the high seas with 'Godfather of Sole', James Brown, on his 'Fish & Trips' boat, Delores.
 Every year, around the end of July, I have two friends to stay in the village. Invariably, for the last 25 years, we've made our annual sabbatical round to St Mawes in Tim's clinker build John Billings boat, trailng for bass as we went. Then, in May, I was asked by James Brown - owner of Fish and Trips, St Mawes - if I'd like to design his flyers for him in exchange for a day's fishing trip (the founding idea of our new Job Swap page, by the way). And so, for the first time in 25 years, I decided to ask the boys on a trip out with James instead, to break with this 1/4 century tradition.
As luck would have it, we picked one of the  best mornings for the trip. The seas were calm and the sun shining, with a few cumulus clouds to take the edge off the heat from time to time. Clamouring aboard at St Mawes harbour, we made some brief introductions (despite doing his flyers for him, I hadn't met him personally), pulled anchor, and we were off.
The boys and I took turns to chat to each other and James himself - who, due to our musical past (we were all three in a band together in the late 80s) we were quick to nickname him 'The Godfather of Sole' after American soul legend of the same name.
James comes from a long line of fishermen and was one himself before giving it up due to lack of trade. Thereafter, he starting his own 'Boat for hire for visitors' fishing business. An easy going man, he made us instantly at ease as we pottered out to the fishing grounds  before cutting the engines and helping us bait up.
Richard was the first to catch a whiting, not two minutes after dunking his line into the brine... something of much amusement to us all as he had a reputation for catching nothing most years.
Before long, both Tim and I were popping in a mixture of mackerel and whiting by the dozen... literally. Having had a boat in Portscatho for a couple of years and our regular bass fishing trips around Gerrans Bay, I was under the belief there was hardly anything left there. But how wrong I was. It just goes to show... knowledge is the root of all fish suppers!
Having caught our fill, we sauntered casually back toward the harbour with yours truly at the helm, leaving James to wash down the decks and gut the fish for us... what a service. Following thanks to the 'Godfather' for his hospitality, and promises of doing it again next year for sure (after al l, the price was VERY reasonable and the amount of fish we caught paid for that in excess), we were into the pub before you could say 'Thwickest Quee Pints".
All in all, a really enjoyable and very price effective way to get a bucket of fish - although James was quick to point out that not every trip can be guaranteed to provide quite such an abundance.
N.B: But if you ask nicely, I'm sure James'll make the fish an offer they can't refuse!
For details of "Fish and Trips, St Mawes", follow this link to his website, or contact James personally on: 07891 300 078 or 01326 279 204 Email: fishandtripstmawes@me.com
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Roseland Flora – Roseland View visits two of the Roseland’s hidden horticultural gems; The Roseland Nursery and The Blue Carrot Cutting Garden.
 
 Roseland Nurseries: First on my mini tour, I popped in to see Stuart and Nicola Bush of Roseland Nurseries. As Roseland Online’s local gardening guru, I was keen to see how their Roseland ‘story’ began and what their ambitions were for the future.
Having both worked themselves to near exhaustion – him as a Naval chef and her as a London surveyor (being responsible for the construction of Canary Wharf, amongst other developments) – they both decided to cut back, before their health made it impossible for them to do so. Their first stop was a hotel on Cornwall’s north coast, which they bought, refurbished and then managed successfully for five years. But this too wasn’t their dream. Both keen gardeners, they started to look around for something that ticked all their boxes. Although the house they ended up with wasn’t perfect, it did have something they saw potential in... the garden. Nicola signed up for an RHS course in Camborne’s Duchy College whilst Stuart rolled up his sleeves and started constructing the polytunnels.
“The nursery wasn’t supposed to be our business venture,” they both confessed as we sat in the comfort of their airy conservatory, looking out their now flourishing business. “We were both tending gardens for the first few years, but found that we were spending as much time sourcing the plants we needed to do our job as tending the gardens... this became the natural next step; to become a local source for Roseland businesses and garden lovers.”
Now, a few years hence, they are a valued and much loved local supplier of plants, shrubs and hanging baskets. Their secret to success? “Service, service, service,” Nicola tells me. “People want to know that they can trust you and your opinion, so offering a good service, no matter what time it takes, is  tantamount to a successful business.”
“And if they don’t want plants, we do a good line in Callestick Ice Cream,” Stuart adds ryley before racing off to tempt a few passing walkers with the same.
It is obvious they both work very hard, but judging by their relaxed demeanour, this charming couple has truly found their niche. So what of the future? “We have some vague plans,” Stuart tells me, as he returns back from his big ice-cream sale, and with a wink, adds “but for now, how about another coffee?”
The Blue Carrot: Tucked away in the old farmhouse walled garden of Tregassa Farm near Portscatho is the delightfully named, The Blue Carrot. Started in 2008 by Susanne Hatwood after her migration here from Germany with her husband, The Blue Carrot started life as a market garden. Selling local, naturally grown vegetables, it became clear that such a small plot (1/4 acre) was never going to be sustainable enough to make a living.
Susanne, like Nicola, spent a year taking an RHS course at Camborne’s Duchy College before being offered a job in their nurseries there. She worked for the college for two years before the daily trips to Camborne lost their appeal and she considered her own business venture on the Roseland. Now, two years down the line, the reputation for the Blue Carrot’s quality is well established and she is embarking on the newest incarnation; local, naturally grown cut flowers.
 “The more I read about imported cut flowers, what they spray on them and how far they travel to reach our vases, the more I wanted to provide the Roseland with an alternative,” Susanne said. “Of course, as with all things truly seasonal, this does mean the customer has to be flexible in their needs, too.”
Growing like this has its drawbacks – Susanne uses a mixture of biodynamics (adhering to the moon’s cycles) and organic principles. If you want roses or daffs out of season, you’ll need to use a standard florist. The Blue Carrot can only supply what it can grow at any time of the year. The benefits? They have nearly zero airmiles, are grown to organic principles – keeping the soil chemical free – and are grown in sustainable, peat-free composts. Alongside her own fertilizers, she also creates her own compost, too. “I also use natural predators to ward off pests rather than sprays,” she tells me as we stroll around her workshop with shelves of antique vases and pots.
Using her own individual style of arranging and traditional and unusual varieties of flowers, Susanne has become overwhelmed with the positive response from locals and is already considering next year’s business growth carefully. “Trouble is, I want to remain small and manageable and even ¼ acre, and all the work that entails, is quite a handful,” she confesses.
One thing is sure; her attention to detail is admirable. “It doesn’t matter whether you’re buying a bunch for your table, a loved one, or as a wedding gift, it deserves the same attention,” she says. And the quaintness of the gardens themselves goes to prove her point.
Visit their respecive websites: www.TheRoselandNurseries.co.uk - www.TheBlueCarrot.co.uk
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May's Roseland View offering takes us into the hidden depths of the Carrick Roads to the Roseland's only 5 star rated B&B - Roundhouse Barns.
 Having lived on the Roseland now for over six years - and coming here for 30 before that - it’s not often I venture into pastures new ‘round these parts. But peeling off the King Harry ferry road, half way from St. Just, I found myself driving down the valley and alongside a stretch of Carrick Roads directly opposite Mylor Harbour – home to the newly renovated, enjoyEnglandfive star rated Roundhouse Barns.
Feeling a tad guilty for having missed their opening party last month, I was inquisitive as to who Barbara and Mark Sadler were and what they had done to achieve the Roseland’s only five star rated B&B status.
As I stepped out on the crunchy driveway, the tranquillity enveloped me instantly – even for someone used to living amongst the lazy peacefulness of the Roseland, it was soft on the ears.
Barbara and Mark greeted me warmly and we retired into their lounge – their only refuge in the huge house when working a busy season – and I started to learn a little about their background.
Barbara moved to Cornwall when she was 20 and worked for the former Carrick council, but after meeting Mark on a job in Nottingham, she was whisked away to London. After two years, they found sanctuary from city life in Shropshire before Mark fulfilled his pre-nuptial  promise of bringing Barbara ‘back home’ to Cornwall within five years – actually with only 3 months to spare!
“The second I saw the tiny ad for the Roundhouse Barns in a newspaper up country, I shouted out to Mark ‘I think I’ve found our new home!’”Barbara confessed. “And as soon as we saw it, we knew it was for us. Certainly it needed a bit of ‘freshening up’, but we thought we’d do that once we got settled.”
But that luxury wasn’t afforded them. Their first paying guest in the cottages (of which they have three self-catering accommodations, as well as the B&B) was just two days after pushing removal boxes though the door and the first paying gu est in the B&B turned out to be the inspection officer from enjoyEngland.
“She turned out to be really helpful,” said Barbara, who runs the whole enterprise most of the time while Mark is in London working in IT. “We asked her to be brutal and shoot from the hip, but we did get great feedback which we knew we could work with.”
In September 2009 they had another impromptu inspection and ended up receiving the full 5 star rating for their hard work and investment.
“It’s been a tough few years, but we’ve achieved what we set out to become,” said Mark. “And in the process, using entirely Roseland workforce,” a trend with the Sadlers, who use local products wherever available for their business, “we built up a portfolio of reliable, hard-working Roseland tradesmen.”
Mark  still has his dream to fulfill. He wants to be here on the Roseland permanently and is thinking along the lines of project management for house refurbishments on the Roseland. “People need someone to coordinate the work their having done on their homes. And if they’re in London, that’s pretty difficult to do by phone,” Mark suggests. “I have experience now and also know some great tradesmen, so it’s an idea at least.”
And if the quality of workmanship and attention to detail in the Roundhouse Barns is anything to go by, I suggest Mark’s business would be a roaring success.
To learn more about what Barbara and Mark have to offer, visit the Roundhouse Barns website.
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Roseland Online editor, Mark David Hatwood, dropped in to Ralph's Stores in Portscatho to discover what's behind the noticable changes in their bakery.
A Rising Passion - In the summer of 2009, having recently moved to the Roseland, Richard Wallis decided to step back from his 15 years of social work and, noticing the wanted ad for a Baker at Ralph’s Stores in Portscatho, thought to himself; “...early mornings, but I’d be on the beach by one. How hard can it be?” And so he signed up to what he thought would be a fairly easy ride.
Nothing could have been further from the truth. But during those first months of toil and stress – not aided by some unhelpful murmurs from the change-resistant residents of our pretty little village – he discovered something quite unexpected; a passion for baking.
Slowly, having waded through the tonnes of pre-baked bread and 40,000 pasties sold each year at Ralphs, he started to feel that more could be done; better quality; more homemade products (especially freshly made bread on the premises); pastries; jams; and even homemade Christmas pastries filled with homemade mincemeat.
Sparked with enthusiasm, which was encouraged by Adrian (New owner of Ralph’s Stores) who wholly supported his every indulgence, Richard started to buy books, partake in courses at St. Austell College and experiment to his heart’s content. One year on, Richard is as enthusiastic as ever.
“I’m off to France in May for two weeks to undertake a patisserie course from the experts... on their soil,” he oozed. “One week of theory in College there, followed by a week of practical work in one of their restaurants.”
He’s convinced the course will put him into an altogether better league.
“I felt very much like a novice last year,” he confessed, humbly “and now I feel more like an apprentice. But I just can’t wait to learn more.”
 Although working alone most of the time, waking at 4.00am to be in his bakery behind Ralph’s stores for 5.30, he’s got help from an assistant but is looking to expand his staff base in the coming weeks. “If anyone wants to learn, I’ll teach them all I know,” he said as we made our way back into the store. “Maybe they’ll even find a spark like I did?”
While Mary took a few photos of his scrummy looking homemade pastries, I got to sample some of his mouth-watering homemade chocolates as we browsed the “Portscatho Zinger” (his punchy marmalade) and “Fiery Chutney”. “This is just the start,” he enthused. “I’m not looking to expand over the Roseland, but if I could make breads and pastries for the needs of the locals and various visitors we have throughout the year, then it’d be enough.”
Well, Richard, if your first attempts at my favourite sour-dough bread is anything to go by (the yeast of which I spotted ‘souring’ on one of the bottom shelves of the bakery), then you’ve certainly managed to raise my passions. Good luck to ya, sir!
Photographs by Mary Alice Pollard - www.justnicephotos.com
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This month, Roseland Online editor, Mark David Hatwood, checked out the Rosevine's newest acquisition; Chef, Tony Duce.
Being slightly off the beaten track, it’s easy to overlook the small principality that is Rosevine – just the far side of Porthcurnick beach. But the walk over, anytime between 9.00am and 9.00pm, would certainly be well worth the trip now.
The Rosevine – a Georgian hotel which, few years ago, was taken over and refurbished into apartments by Tim and Hazel Brocklebank – has just had a new acquisition in the shape of head chef, Tony Duce. Tony worked with Tim and Hazel six years ago at Fowley Hall (the double AA Rosette rated hotel) and now they re-ignite their successful relationship, here on the Roseland.
Their aim, they tell me, is to strike a good balance between pub grub and five star dining – which can stretch ones finances on a weekly basis!
“We want locals, as well as visitors, to feel that they have somewhere to go for a great meal at a reasonable price,” said Tim, who seems genuinely interested in attracting the local market to his beautifully refurbished ‘house by the sea’.
Tony went on to underline that. “’Local food, cooked well’, is my watchword,” he told me. “We are trying to source all our fish, veg, and meats locally,” he  added. “In fact, I have plans to go out foraging in the coming weeks. There’s plenty of wild garlic growing in the locale, and I’ve heard we have morels within the grounds, too, which we can use fresh, or dry for the summer season to use in dishes like risottos. We’re also making our own breads... I think that should be a standard at any restaurant.”
Like most serious chefs, Tony – as well as restaurant manager Mark Lewin – is passionate about the possibilities for the restaurant, and they are both showing that in the flexibility of the opening hours. “Breakfast from 9, to 12, will be standard,” says Mark, “allowing locals to enjoy the benefits of the breakfast menu as well as our guests. Then it’s straight into the lunch menu at 12, which will run right through to we finish at 9pm. There are also snacks from 12 to 5 for those who don’t want a full-blown meal during the day.”
There’s no doubt that that sort of flexibility will pay dividends in the long run. Families will be able to slide off the beach for a light lunch or early dinner at any time of day, and there’ll be afternoon teas – utilising Tony’s speciality – his desserts – for those who want something a little lighter.
“We’re also offering both small and large portions for both starters and mains,” he tells me, “because, if you’re anything like me, I can’t normally eat both a starter and large main without passing on dessert. This way, anyone could have a light starter and a light main, and still have room for dessert. So you get the chance to taste more of the variety we have to offer.
Picking up a menu on my way out, I saw they are keeping to their word. Most dishes are between £6 and £9 for a small serving, or £12 to £16 for a large (Cornish fillet steak being an exception at £23), so it would be very easy to have three courses for around £18... But the proof of the pudding’s in the eating, so my wife, Susanne, and I, booked ourselves in for a sneak preview that evening.
 Having a leisurely drink in the lounge, sitting by a warm, inviting fire, we ordered our starters and mains. Susanne: a ‘Sweet Potato Risotto’, followed by ‘Rosevine Fishcakes with Hollandaise’; Me; ‘Tomato and Sweet Pepper Soup’ followed by ‘Goats Cheese and Red Onion Tart on a bed of Salad’.
The next two hours was drenched with ‘Ohh’s’ and 'Ahh’s’, as we passed samples of our delicious fayre back and forth across the table to each other... giggling like school kids. I was truly hoping to be a proper ‘critique’ and talk of the mistakes they’d made and 'opportunities missed', but honestly, it was magnificent. In fact, once we’d finished our breathtaking puddings – Tony was true to his word... his sweets (or ‘treats’ as he likes to call them) really were unbeatable – Susanne leaned over and said, “I think that’s the best meal I’ve had in years.”
So, just £53 lighter, including drinks, we sauntered out of the restaurant fully satisfied... and I challenge you to have a three course meal, including drinks, even at a pub for that, never mind a restaurant!
In short, if you want a real treat, that won’t cost the earth, then I highly recommend you get yourselves over to the Rosevine during March... before the Easter and summer rush... and before they realise that, at those prices, they’re almost giving it away!
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In February, Roseland Online photographer Sarah Vandome took a tour around the Roseland Inn, in Philleigh, and its new micro brewery.
 Nestling in the heart of the Roseland Peninsula, just a short distance from the King Harry Ferry, lies the Roseland Inn at Philleigh. Set in a remote and unspoilt rural background of scant homesteads and surrounding farmland, this old country pub offers visitors a warm and welcoming atmosphere, whatever the season. Though historic records show the existing pub dates from 1715, the presence of an inn on the site is rumoured to be much earlier, adding to its charms. It is easily accessible from Falmouth, Truro and St Austell, and is especially popular in high summer with visitors to the area.
The business experienced a decline in recent years, although it has won a number of culinary awards in the past, among which were Best Catering Pub in the South West and The Daily Mail Best Pub in Cornwall 2002.
The pub is now run by Phil & Debbie Heslip, who took over the management in early 2009. Originally from Derbyshire but living for many years in nearby St. Mawes, they are keen to offer an upmarket brand of pub cuisine. To complement the beers supplied by Sharpe's, they have created a promising new range of products from their own microbrewery. My husband Chris and I visited the pub recently to discover what the latest menu had to offer and how production in the microbrewery is progressing.
 Phil began brewing in June 2009. The aim was initially to produce three good quality beers of low, low-medium, and high strength alcoholic content. This leaves scope for new products in the mid-high strength range later on. The three beers currently on offer are: Cornish Shag, an amber ale of 4%; Choughed to Bits, at 3.8% an ale of principally pale malt and sharper flavour than Cornish Shag; lastly, High as a Kite, a much darker and stronger, maltier ale of 5.2%. The beers are cheerfully named after charismatic birds found  in Cornwall. Any new ales will thus be named in a similar vein. Early in production, technical issues posed a challenge to perfecting the balances of alcohol and flavour. But Phil has refined processing to a point where production has been standardised and is now even ready for bottle sales. A number of other pubs have also expressed interest in supplying the new beers to their own customers.
Waste output from the microbrewery is carefully recycled. The spent mash, for example, is sent for cattle feed while used hop material is composted. Phil also hopes to make the brewery more visible by fitting glass panelled doors, allowing punters the chance to see their favourite brew in creation, for these  new real ales are rapidly gaining popularity. My own pint certainly left me longing for balmy summer afternoons washing down a good, Cornish cheese Ploughman's.
Production in the brewery is rivalled by production from the pub's kitchen, whose daily changing menu is reflected in the choices on the blackboard in the restaurant. The style is modern British, with local and organic ingredients sourced wherever possible. Freshly caught fish is the speciality. Grilled bass fillets or Megrim Sole are typically available along with lighter options such as Thai style mussels with crusty bread. Also featured was Smoked salmon, served with a poached duck egg and accompanied by sautéed potatoes and mushrooms. Grilled pheasant with pea, asparagus and pannacetto risotto contrasted with the roasted belly pork, served with thyme rosti and an apple and calvados sauce. The brewery beer-battered cod and chips gave this timeless favourite a uniquely local touch. Being a strict vegetarian I felt disappointed in the lack of vegetarian main options displayed. But as Phil and his staff are keen to point out, the chef is happy to create a freshly prepared dish on request.
The lunch menu offers a good choice of soup and sandwich options, including a delicious mozzarella and basil ciabatta. Salads may feature coronation chicken or smoked salmon with cream cheese, while Cornish  cheese, ham and beef ploughman's are available.
Meals are generally priced at restaurant level and the presentation is very good.
Additionally, there is a variety of modern and traditional desserts on offer, although at £5.50 this might deter some customers from trying out some of the more exotic sounding options. Those that we tried were delicious and all attractively presented.
Next door to the pub at the other end of the building is the Farm Shop, also run by Julie and Debbie and at the time of our visit was closed. It sells traditional Cornish produce, gifts and crafts and is open from Wednesday to Sunday, 11pm to 3pm. Purchases of particular items can be made out of hours on request at the pub.
Sarah Vandome
If you'd like to report for Roseland Online on a hidden gem within the Roseland, contact us and we'd be glad to consider it.
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